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Topics - gnonyx
31
« on: June 21 2020, 08:18:18 PM »
Hi all,
Is it wise to replace the suspension coil springs being the age of our TR?
It's to my understanding the front are Constant Rate Spring
The rear are Variable Rate Springs
32
« on: June 19 2020, 02:36:16 PM »
Hi All,
Now that Steve has helped me out greatly with the engine, I'm in the process of replacing the upper, and lower ball joints.
To me it seems there are two type of ball joints manufactures, unless others have difference of opinions which one would be best for out tr:
MOOG upper ball joints [/color]K5208[/size]
[/color]MOOG lower ball joints [/size]K6145T
[/color]ACDelco Professional upper Ball Joint [/color]45D0016[/size]
[/color]ACDelco Professional lower Ball Joint [/color]45D2026[/size]
33
« on: April 22 2020, 04:02:57 PM »
Well it's that time again to reinstall the turbo back again after replacing the turbo flange gasket.
I do have a question, the ground cable that attach to the lower end bolt of the turbo bracket, is this cable mounted on the block itself or is it mounted on the turbo bracket?
Thanks
34
« on: March 01 2020, 10:10:41 AM »
Hi All,
I forgot when I replaced the stock header gaskets many years ago when I was younger in age it was a breeze, but now my age has caught up to me and I can't remember shit.
I know this much, to remove the driver side header, I have to remove the driver side tire to get to the header bolts, and unbolt underneath the crossover pipe.
Do I have to remove the downpipe to get to the pass. side header bolts, or can the downpipe stays bolted in place and I work around it to remove the pass. header bolts?
35
« on: February 27 2020, 08:49:44 PM »
What is the correct length stock throttle cable?
36
« on: February 24 2020, 08:08:04 PM »
Can I apply silicone on pan for this Fel-Pro gasket, or install it dry?
37
« on: February 24 2020, 10:05:36 AM »
Is it wise to replace the original gas pedal cable, or just leave along since it's still function?
38
« on: February 19 2020, 07:22:00 PM »
Hi All,
Question, When ordering this EHR block off plate, why are they sending a screw when the original set up is bolted down with a nut? Or is every engine has a different factory set up?
My personal feelings, Forget about the useless screw just send a gasket.
39
« on: February 15 2020, 12:50:59 PM »
Is there another donut that would be an oversize compare to the normal size stock?
After tuning and adjustment was made I did notice some exhaust was expelling around the donut area.
The donut was replaced and the stock bolts with spring are max out
40
« on: February 14 2020, 07:21:00 PM »
Which one is more important; adjust the TPS idle reading of between 0.40 and 0.46 volts?
or
adjust until the sensor reads between 4.55 volts and 4.85 volts?
41
« on: February 10 2020, 09:20:50 PM »
I started by replacing the intermediate exhaust pipes, muffler, and reused the original tail pipes
Replaced the powermaster with complete vacuum system, and I'm still working on them. I started by bleeding all brakes by gravity just to remove the old dirty brake fluid. Installed Russell speed bleeder, Bench bleed the MC, fresh brake fluid, and started to bleed the pass. rear. Only to find out nothing was coming out of the bleeder, I removed the bleeder clean it a bit and still nothing.
The bad new is now I have to replace the wheel cylinder, and reading how it's connected with a clip instead of two bolts. I replace the exhaust elbow/downpipe donut was damaged from moving back and forth when installing the mufflers system.
I couldn't figure where the ticking noise was coming thinking it was the donut, being I removed the throttle body to replace the shaft seal, and replace the oxygen sensor. Here I thought I was going to use a 7/8" wrench and the damn thing was so loose I removed it by just a few turns. Now I know where the ticking noise was coming from, and why the BLM was reading over 148.
I don't know if this is a winter maintenance or a winter project.I made a smoke machine and that's is how I found a major vacuum leak coming from the throttle body shaft seals, as this is the second time I replaced them.
I did found out these seals are not a direct replacement, and the following statement explains: The only available shaft seals for Buick GN throttle bodys measure 10 X 17 X 5mm. These are .010" oversize. ANSI Standards for these seals specify a maximum press fit of .0011" thousandths. For this reason you really need to enlarge the seal pockets to get a good seal there. Distorting the shaft seal will affect its function.
I used my Dremel with a sanding band and rotate in circle inside the throttle body shaft seal pockets, and it fit pretty good, but the true test is when I use the smoke machine.
The left oxygen sensor is what I removed and the right is Denso replacement, and the damaged exhaust elbow/downpipe donut
42
« on: February 06 2020, 02:01:30 PM »
I finally switched over from powermaster to vacuum brake system, both brake line fittings are the same, so would it make a difference if the rear brake lines is attached to the front master cylinder, or should the rear brake lines be connected to the master cylinder fitting closest to the firewall?
43
« on: January 31 2020, 05:13:09 PM »
As the title, I'm looking for the floor shifter chrome shaft only please let me know if anyone has one, and [/size]what price. [/size]Thanks
[/size][/color]
[/size][/color]
[/size][/color]
44
« on: January 16 2020, 07:14:48 PM »
My question is how do you remove the brake pedal bolt for it's location?
What bolt and nut size?
I'm in the process of going to vacuum system from the Powermaster system
Removed the powermaster from the firewall, but I'm having a hard time trying to get to the bolt to remove the powermaster pedal.
Also what is the nut size that holds the steering up against the bracket?
Thanks
45
« on: January 13 2020, 05:09:56 PM »
After doing a oil changed is when I started to smell like wire burning coming around underneath the powermaster.
I think my powermaster finally went after being the original of having 90,000 miles.
I was thinking of also doing the vacuum replacement but now I don't have to think, now I have an additional winter work load of doing the replacement. I do have a spare powermaster unit, but after reading many stories of not having brakes, I'm switching over to vacuum.
I did notice looking underneath I have the original cast iron Disc Drum Proportioning Valve.
If I'm replacing over to vacuum type do you think I should also replace the Disc Drum Proportioning Valve with the new type of being made of brass?
Also I see many type of claiming to be equal as GM from USA made to China made
Has anyone replace the Disc Drum Proportioning Valve, and id so which one and what type was your replacement?
Thanks
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