IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Auto Tech => Topic started by: TexasT on September 04 2017, 12:02:22 PM
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So, I'm reading up on this and did another swim through the charlief1 (RIP) thread.
I don't really want to go with new control arms, too much $$$, and the one recommend over in that thread have a steel bushing and I daily mine so I don't think that is the answer for me.
I found some energy suspension bushings on the rock auto, http://imagesrv.catalograck.com/imgVD/ENE/17019.pdf (http://imagesrv.catalograck.com/imgVD/ENE/17019.pdf) http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/buick,1987,regal,3.8l+231cid+v6+turbocharged,1020957,suspension,control+arm+bushing,7532 (http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/buick,1987,regal,3.8l+231cid+v6+turbocharged,1020957,suspension,control+arm+bushing,7532)
But it appears one must use the shells already in there.
Also came across these http://www.spohn.net/shop/1978-1987-GM-G-Body/Suspension/Polyurethane-Bushings-Accessories/Polyurethane-Front-Upper-Lower-A-Arm-Bushings.html (http://www.spohn.net/shop/1978-1987-GM-G-Body/Suspension/Polyurethane-Bushings-Accessories/Polyurethane-Front-Upper-Lower-A-Arm-Bushings.html)
And they say they come with the shells Both about the same $$$
Mine are gone on the pass side by the down pipe and the inside of the tire wears rapidly.
Also looked at these
http://www.globalwest.net/1023.html (http://www.globalwest.net/1023.html)
They have the grease zerk. Not sure how that is better but probably helps with squeeking and such. also more $$$ but I don't want to do this more than once.
Thought about some taller ball joints. Could lower the front to get it down with the saggy back.
Any thoughts on these or suggestions for others?
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Upon more searching I came across these.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1978-88-GM-Polyurethane-Upper-Control-Arm-Bushings,35243.html (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1978-88-GM-Polyurethane-Upper-Control-Arm-Bushings,35243.html)
so I put the number into ebay and came up with these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1978-88-GM-Polyurethane-Upper-Control-Arm-Bushings-/381899696596?hash=item58eafee9d4:g:QNcAAOSwa~BYYZ6~&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1978-88-GM-Polyurethane-Upper-Control-Arm-Bushings-/381899696596?hash=item58eafee9d4:g:QNcAAOSwa~BYYZ6~&vxp=mtr)
Save a doll hair on shipping.
I think this is the way I'm leaning. Might consider a taller lower ball joint if someone thinks it a good addition at this time.
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If you keep the stock control arms, geometry will stay the same. New springs are cheap. Make up a heat shield for the passenger side to save the new bushings
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Even if I use the different length ball joints and/or some offset upper arm shafts?
I can't get onboard with metal bushings on my daily driver. I guess I just need to get some bushings and put em in with the shield.
http://mas-industries.com/online-catalog/ (http://mas-industries.com/online-catalog/)
Part#: CSK6218
It sez they help with camber issues. Rock auto has em for <$15 for the side plus shipping($8 or so).
I can make a heat shield.
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You won't know if you have a camber issue until you do all of your repairs. If you do new springs camber will change. If you put offset upper control arm pivot shafts you might create a problem. If your bushings are that shot camber will change, replacing just the bushing will probably keep camber close.
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Charlie's parts list has the upper control arms about a1/2 inch shorter than stock length. Sure puts the upper ball joint at a bad angle. His parts list is aimed at a lowered road course Gbody. The metal bushings aren't bad at all on the road. Put about 5k miles on them. Just keep them lubed. The white t handled well but it was an undertaking to get it right. You rode in it in Hillsboro.
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The issue with changing control arm length, and I discussed this w/Charlie, caster now becomes an issue. You have to play around to get a good road and turning "feel"
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Poly bushings and new ball joints and call it good. You can box the stock arms some to make them stiffer.
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Agreed. Poly bushings and high quality stock ball joints.