IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Auto Tech => Topic started by: gordyzx9r on May 28 2015, 09:55:36 AM
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1970 Chevy C10 CE10934
BX2: B SIDE MLDG-WIDE LWR
DG4: W/C MIRROR-JR-LH&RH
F59: FRT STABILIZER EQUIP
G80: POSITRAC AXLE
LS9: 350 CU. IN. V-8 ENG
NA9: EVAPORATIVE EMISSION CONTROL
U63: RADIO - PUSH BUTTON
V01: HEAVY-DUTY RADIATOR
Z53 Amp Oil Temp Gauge
521 WHITE
B85: BODY SIDE MOULDING (UPPER)
F51: FRT&REAR SHOCK ABS
G50: H.D. REAR SPRING
J70: BRAKE BOOSTER EQ
M20: 4 SPD TRANSMISSION
N40: POWER STEERING
VK2: TOOL AND STOWAGE BOX or TOOL AND STORAGE BOX
V46: CHROME BUMPER-FRONT
Z62: CUSTOM COMF & CONV EQ
629 OLIVE CUSTOM CLOTH TRK
My father found it for me out in CA at a swap meet. Guy was asking $6500 but wound up with it at $4500.
Far from stock...not even close, but it is very clean. I have no intention of getting it back to stock or putting it in purist form, just going to drive the crap out of it and have some fun in the process.
I don't know anything about it, no idea what the history is, what's in the motor...etc.
The motor appears to have been freshened up and it feels/sounds like it has a bigger cam in it. Runs great. Odometer says 50K...no idea if that is 150K, 250K, or 350K, lol. Underneath is solid, and I can't find any corrosion on the frame anywhere. The only bit of rust I did find was on the passenger side in the door opening, but it looks like someone did a half ass repair attempt on it. It was repainted god knows when. I'm thinking at least 8, maybe 10 years. I need to see about getting that color matched so I can get some touch up paint for it as there are a couple of pretty big chips and a few nicks here and there. When they repainted it, they did not fill in the holes for the lower body molding. And there is a hole on the driver side bed where at some point someone had installed an auxiliary fuel tank. If I can, I'd rather just fill/seal that hole with a fake gas cap or something. Wasn't a stock option. According to the RPO it was originally white with green interior. Still has the green steering wheel shaft, I'll see about getting that out and spray painting it black.
It had a bunch of goofy decals and skull accessories on it. Someone went a little nuts with the skull accessories from Advanced Auto (skull rear view mirror, skull valve stem covers, skull door lock stems, etc.). Took all that junk off along with the weird decals.
Upcoming projects:
I have a gallon of bed liner coating, so I'll put that on soon.
Shocks (they're shot)
Brakes (drums all around...might see about putting discs up front)
Lock for that tool/storage box
Glove box liner
Dome light (no lense or bulb)
Seat belts (someone took out the original seat belts and installed some aftermarket ones, but instead of sewing them at the bottom to hold it together they wrapped a zip tie around it).
Lower body molding (I really don't want anything, but I don't like the idea of those holes being there...and I really don't want that stock molding it came with either. I'm thinking just a thin solid strip of chrome)
Pedals (they put on Advance Auto tuner style pedals...those have to go)
Hood (something is missing, a brace, or support, something...wh en you close it, you have to be very careful and lower it slowly, then go back to each corner near the firewall and press it down into place before you latch down the front)
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Pics
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More pics
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Nice truck! Love the C-10's. :cheers:
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Use some 80/90 on the hood hinges. It's normal for them to be a complete PITA and you can bend the hood if you're not careful. Once they're working better then use spray lithium grease on them about every 6 months.
The biggest issue I ever found on that style is that the rockers rust out under the cab really bad. The drain holes are just to small so crap gets in them and starts the process.
Nice truck and good luck with her. :rock:
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Use some 80/90 on the hood hinges.
80/90? Gear oil?
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Gear lube Gordy. It will let it move easier and stick where you put it. Once you get it moving right then spray some lithium grease on it.
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Love those old C10's!
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I'll trade you my Buick for it. ;)
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Any ideas on what I can do to plug up those large holes in the bed from the aux tank? Fake gas cap or something along those lines?
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Really nice truck, Gordy! I think your Dad did you well on that one.
That hole is going to be a bit of pain to fill. On tv, they would cut out a disk and roll it into a curve that fits the hole perfectly and weld it in. Take about 3 minutes. In real life that would take six hours and cost $750 dollars if a friend did it for you.
Looks like a place to mount your family coat of arms.
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Really nice truck, Gordy! I think your Dad did you well on that one.
That hole is going to be a bit of pain to fill. On tv, they would cut out a disk and roll it into a curve that fits the hole perfectly and weld it in. Take about 3 minutes. In real life that would take six hours and cost $750 dollars if a friend did it for you.
Looks like a place to mount your family coat of arms.
I was thinking something like that. Maybe Mike can whip up his motorhead avatar/shirt design emblem on a disc I can have tac welded to it :rock:
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Really nice truck, Gordy! I think your Dad did you well on that one.
That hole is going to be a bit of pain to fill. On tv, they would cut out a disk and roll it into a curve that fits the hole perfectly and weld it in. Take about 3 minutes. In real life that would take six hours and cost $750 dollars if a friend did it for you.
Looks like a place to mount your family coat of arms.
I was thinking something like that. Maybe Mike can whip up his motorhead avatar/shirt design emblem on a disc I can have tac welded to it :rock:
Funny you say that... I was going to get one laser/water jetted out and tack weld it to the diff in the wagon. I also need to do another run of shirts because mine are wearing out.
Natasha and I want to start a home business and selling these little things would be a great way to turn a profit for the books.
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Any ideas on what I can do to plug up those large holes in the bed from the aux tank? Fake gas cap or something along those lines?
Beer Keg mount?
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Any ideas on what I can do to plug up those large holes in the bed from the aux tank? Fake gas cap or something along those lines?
Beer Keg mount?
A tap would work better since you can put the kegs in the bed. :rock:
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Yeah...no. My fiance is already referring to it as a dilapidated old farm truck.
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So, I'm trying to take care of a few minor things with my new old 1970 C10 (http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=672085) I picked up recently.
I'm finding a few odd things here and there that I'm not sure either:
What is it?
What's it do?
Do I need it?
What was supposed to go in that mounting bracket (that nothing is mounted to anymore)?
I'd really like to gut anything and everything I can related to emissions controls. I don't live in an area where I need it...and most of it is dry rotted, capped off, and lines just sitting there anyways not connected to anything.
Is there a really good fuse box diagram somewhere? I downloaded the Chevrolet Chassis Manual from this site, but that's not exactly crystal clear.
The fuel gauge is not working. I need to troubleshoot that. What resources are there here to do that? There is a wire running from the center of the top of the tank (which I assume is the sending unit) directly to the fuse box. Is it supposed to be? Just to see what would happen, I pulled the plug out of the fuse box and the gauge went past full. I put it back in, and the gauge goes to empty.
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More.
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And more...
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What I've learned so far from the Chevy truck forums:
1: Circuit breaker - Not original equipment. Someone added one to mine like that when they installed a electric brake controller
2: Vacuum ports. Best guess is the carb is not OE and those may not be used in your application
3: valve covers. If you have no grounds place one from the head[where you have a bolt hole on the end] or intake or even the block to the frame them one from the motor to the cab. You can't have too many ground straps, it just helps the wiring out so much.
4: flux capacitor
5. Pink is your ignition power.
6: is the vacuum port for an auto transmission. You did the correct thing to cap it since you have a stick.
7: Evaporative canister purge line. Canister purge is not evil. It is a passive system and would allow you to have a closed fuel system. That makes it so less fuel evaporates, less fuel smell, etc. I am a big proponent of converting to fuel injection and getting rid of as much as possible, but I always leave canister purge.
8: fuel pump n tranny lines
9: As mentioned, big cap HEI and rubber fuel hoses on the pressure side (rubber fuel line is a great way to burn it down to the ground).
9: The distributor is not original to your truck as the HEI type did not come out until 75-76. It will work fine as it produced better, higher spark without using point and condenser. Just remember to gap your spark plugs to 45. The original ignition system with points the spark plug gap is .35 The dist is not really out of place it is a HEI unit used on everything GM AFTER say 74. But they are so good and efficient that tons of folks retro place them on their trucks.
10: I'm pretty certain that is not correct. The brown wire needs to go to the instrument cluster.
11. No idea.
12. Needs the floor mounted gas pedal. You should have two "ball studs" that are screwed into the floor that the gas pedal snaps on to.
13. Looks to be the resistance wire that use to go to the points distributor. Or; it is the brake warning lamp wire.
14: blower motor power-hook it up.
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no bad advice there.
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screenshot5 is a power plug and noise transformer from an aftermarket radio. Toss it in the scrap metal pile.
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pic5 looks like a transformer and since there ain't no such thing as a DC transformer I would guess it was an inductor to control alternator whine in the power lead to a radio- aftermarket radio harness?
AND EARL BEATS ME BY A GOOD 6 HOURS CUZ I DIDN"T READ TO THE END OF THE TEST LIKE THE TEACHER SAID
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12 - resistors for either blower motor or IGN ballast?
Agree on #1 and 14
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12 - resistors for either blower motor or IGN ballast?
Agree on #1 and 14
No idea. They're not actually attached to anything.
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Gordy, I always liked the cargo toolbox but they've always been on the drivers side. Doesn't matter, your trucks cool and you put you're personal touches to it. You can have my left and right arm, my shop, and my GN, but you can't have my 72 GMC.
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So, decided to replace the fuel filter and the old rubber fuel lines with new rubber fuel lines (temporarily until I can get some metal lines). Emptied the contents of the old filter into a bowl to inspect it and wow! Either CA gas has lots of sediment, someone put dirt in the tank, or the tank is rusting from the inside.
Also, I need to find a car cover for this thing...but just for the cab. I don't have room for it in the garage, but it's got a leak somewhere and water is coming in. Need to replace seals, and plug some holes I'm finding that they put in for a variety of reasons.
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I would guess the tank is rotten...time to replace the tank with one set up for fuel injection and get prepared for fuel injection
Order a shop manual so you can sort out the wiring. As you have figured out, the stock distributor/coil used a resistance wire to provide 9 volts when running and a bypass wire to provide 12 v during starting. That was eliminated when the hei distributor was installed as it takes 12 volts all the time.
A CS 144 alternator off a 94-96 Impala, etc. will replace the voltage regulator and old alternator and give a lot more reliability plus the ability to run anything you hook up like sound system, electric fans, electric fuel pump, etc.
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Order a shop manual so you can sort out the wiring.
Found a PDF online...from 1970. Not the best.