Used Torque Converters

[Steve Wood]

Mark's recent purchase reminded me of this.


Unless you know the person selling a torque converter and/or know the history of the transmission it came off, it is generally very risky business buying an used converter unless you are prepared to ship it off to a rebuilder and have it gone through.


Reason being:  If the unit came off a car with a blown transmission, then it is surely filled with debris that will soon take your tranny out.  If it is an old unit, it is probably worn out inside and and needs a going thru anyway-after all, originals are some 25 years old and converters have a limited life just like every other part.  Original converters are no bargain even if the tranny has not been blown.


In short, there is a lot of risk in buying a unit that you don't know the history and age of.   Also the stamp on the converter is no guarantee of what stall the converter is.  GM sold rebuilt units with varying stall without regard to the original use.  Our cars stalled about 2200 rpm against the brake and most naturally aspirated converters stalled about 1700 rpm which does not work worth a darn with our cars.  Most, if not all, factory rebuilds are around 1700.


Given that a decent tranny rebuild and converter will cost you at least $1500, this ain't the place to gamble when saving money unless you know the person that you are getting it from.

[$1987 GN$]

So true, nice post Steve. 

AJ___

[SuperSix]

Yep - more great advice.

Pat's wants to charge me $200.00 to restall the 10" I have from 3500 > 2800. I have heard that it might not be good to restall LOWER, so I am thinking of selling the Pat's 10" as is, @ 3500 stall, and buying a new converter.

Thoughts?

[Steve Wood]

I have never developed a warm and fuzzy regarding Pat's so I would sell it and buy another one..but, that is feeling and not a statistical fact

[SuperSix]

I have never developed a warm and fuzzy regarding Pat's so I would sell it and buy another one..but, that is feeling and not a statistical fact

What's the reason? Quality? customer service?

[Steve Wood]

just people complaining about the stall, etc.

[Scoobum]

I have never developed a warm and fuzzy regarding Pat's so I would sell it and buy another one..but, that is feeling and not a statistical fact

I'f you're going with a LU convertor...th en I'd stick with a Precision multidisc. Slip rate is incredibly low when locked at WOT. I'm trashing my car at the track on a regular basis so I use a NL...for longevity.

[SuperSix]

They are like 900.00. No way can I justify that, for street use, and I am spending a lot more on this car than I expected to.

[Scoobum]

I picked up an AC NL for my car for $300.00...but I knew the owner and it wasn't abused. I think PTC sells an off the shelf 2800 for about $500.00.

[Scoobum]

Final verdict for convertor selection?

[SuperSix]

I'm going to get the 10" Pat's 1003XHD restalled to 2800

[Scoobum]

LU or NL?

[SuperSix]

Lock up.  I plan to do a good bit of highway miles and general cruising. I will be doing very very little dragstrip racing at all.

I'm thinking even this would be fine. Quite a few are using it and happy from what I can find. Then, I could sell the 10" 3500 stall and break even or make a few bucks.
http://www.patsperformanceconverter.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1202XHD

[Steve Wood]

Lock up.  I plan to do a good bit of highway miles and general cruising. I will be doing very very little dragstrip racing at all.

I'm thinking even this would be fine. Quite a few are using it and happy from what I can find. Then, I could sell the 10" 3500 stall and break even or make a few bucks.
http://www.patsperformanceconverter.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1202XHD

don't go over the 2600-2800 rpm option...big converters are very inefficient as the stall goes up and this is the reasonable limit for a 12" unit

[Scoobum]

I agree with Steve...the higher the stall...the more the slip rate increases...an d more heat...and less driveability.