IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: RightyTighty on May 31 2017, 07:13:13 PM
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I must be doing something wrong.
I don't race my car but I still have a crack above the left b pillar. It's been repaired and came back.
I have the top engine bay braces.
I did have the bottom braces but I think I removed them for the RJC intercooler.
I have the rear seat braces.
Poly bushings all around.
HR bar.
I guess I should get the GNX rear seat brace also? What else can I brace besides getting a rollbar? What can I do to repair the crack for good?
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Is the car twisting on launch? Reread your post. You don't race it.
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How are your body mounts and their frame attachment points?
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I don't race this car at the track...yet
I have had some non boost launches on the street but nothing too serious. Just doesn't seem like it takes much for it to crack. I'm sure it wasn't repaired right now that I'm thinking about it.
I'll double check tomorrow but I'm sure all the attachment points are fine. You talking about being rusted out correct? The bushings are poly and solid I'm sure.
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These pages have all the bracing I added to the wagon:
http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/index.php?topic=4210.100 (http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/index.php?topic=4210.100)
http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/index.php?topic=4210.200 (http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/index.php?topic=4210.200)
Add a G-Force crossmember and a good rear swaybar, and that should fix the twist from all the torque.
Oh and don't be a pussy: roll your fender lips (you cannot take the car with you; metal can be replaced, memories cannot). If I told you what this Frankensteined wagon was appraised at/insured for you'd get to cutting and welding too.
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I have the HR bar. An aftermarket crossmember is more effective? I'll have to wait on that till I figure out what I'm going to do with my exhaust but in the meantime I'm going to look into the crossmember.
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An aftermarket crossmember is more effective?
I would like to know more about this too.
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About 10 million launches like this, and I haven't blown the T-tops out of it or wrinkled the rear quarters. The back seat is crossbraced, ATR rear bar and Metco billet aluminum rear lower control arms. That's it.
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There's a crossbrace from UMI...but it won't fit if you're using the stock exhaust hangers.
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I must be doing something wrong. I have never built boost and launched the car. Never heated the tires and launched the car.
This is a hardtop.
All the braces minus the HR bar were added when the car was stock, one of the first things I did. Bushings were changed to poly before they even made the kit. HR motor mounts were added when they first came out.
What could this be? How can I repair the crack and strengthen that area. Remember, it's the drivers side B pillar right at the end of the window gutter.
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Put a rear seat brace kit in with the car lifted off the ground. Then repair the pillar. I had a little bit of wrinkling with the low milage car but once I installed the brace kit it did not get any worse. And the car would pull mid to high 1.6 60ft times.
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Yes, lifting the car up with jack stands on the frame is how I installed the rear seat braces. Thanks for bringing that up.
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An aftermarket crossmember is more effective?
I would like to know more about this too.
It is a ladder frame. Therefore the stronger/greater number rungs, the stronger/less flex the side rails will have. If you can triangulate between the rails you potentially gain even more benefits; same with stiffening the rails.
I solid mounted my engine, and added a number of additional rungs that tied the rails and/or body together. Wagons are also inherently stiffer because the A, B, C and D pillars - and being a big box.
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I was thinking
Maybe the back seat brace bolts loosened up or moved around. I just need to weld in the GNX piece.