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Messages - TurboCajun
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31
« on: January 31 2016, 04:34:36 PM »
well went for another ride and after a few hits and the car warmed up really good it started backfiring again .
32
« on: January 31 2016, 01:30:07 PM »
This morning I started early, got under the dash and pulled the switch out and cleaned the terminals, removed every fuse wiggle and replaced. voltage drop at the switch when move the wires around was 0.3 volts. after cleaning the terminals it would drop 0.2 volts. I also decided to put the old coil and module back on. I stripped the power coat from every place the a bolt went thru. and the car DID NOT backfire, DID NOT miss, and as I looked at the logs ( i made two different ones) the first log volts stayed right at 13 volts, that was a third gear pull, the second log volts dropped to 11.7 that was a second gear pull and I think that the fans had come on.
33
« on: January 30 2016, 07:29:27 PM »
I am not trying to confuse you Steve, I am the one that my head is spinning,
the engine does not miss when I move the wires, the only time it did was when I move the connector at the ECM and I changed the ECM and it stopped.
on one test run I seen the volts drop to 0.0 and 5.5 on the scan master and on that run i did not get a log because the power logger did not save the file. on other runs I see the volts drop to low 12s and on the one that I did get a log the volts look to drop after the backfire "on the log"
the one thing that I did not check was the ignition switch, my back told me not to even try that today, so maybe tomorrow I will get under the dash or have my son do it. I will send all day under the dash if i have to, to make sure everything is in order.
I also have an extra ground wire on the module
I also noticed earlier that my fuel pressure gauge pulses with the signal light on, it is faint but it does
I will also put my old module and pack on tomorrow.
I have to fix this its driving me crazy.
Steve thanks for your patience I know I am not the easiest person to help.
34
« on: January 30 2016, 04:44:43 PM »
I went over all the wires, pulled, played and checked all the routing and it did nor did I see anything. I am lost. guess I may try the old module and coil. ? would the crank sensor get week under load. I looked at a log last night and the volts drop to 12. 4 but it seems that the voltage drop is after the backfire, but maybe its just reading slower than when it happens. on a test today I just went part throttle and as the boost builds you can feel the car start missing. another one of my long winded treads
35
« on: January 29 2016, 09:25:30 PM »
I will do some more checking tomorrow on the harness,
36
« on: January 29 2016, 08:36:27 PM »
I did check every wire one at a time , that is why I changed the ECM because the problem only happened when I moved the connector but it did not happen after I changed the ECM
Steve it seems to me like something is drawing down the volts when I gas it.
37
« on: January 29 2016, 07:49:58 PM »
 I went thru all what you said Steve in the order you gave, all grounds are good, no voltage drop at the Bat. when I got to the ECM I checked there and all was good until I move the wires on the harness, the car sputters, i keep playing with it and it keeps acting up , so I got out the other ECM put the power logger on and it stopped, went for a ride and still the same voltage is dropping when I get into the gas. came back and took the battery out and had it tested GOOD, put the spare Alt in still the same shit. I got the code 42 again. last test run it was dark and I noticed the lights dimmed alot when I stepped on the gas.
38
« on: January 29 2016, 09:51:59 AM »
another thing at one point i rev the engine in the garage and as it idled down it shut off , I cranked it back up and it gave me the code 42. but it has not happened again.
39
« on: January 29 2016, 09:48:09 AM »
ok used a third leak down tester and it seal good at the spark plug holes and all the cyl were right around 10-12% , called the builder and came up with it maybe the intake or a bad pcv, I order the good one from RJC i just need to change my grommet for it to fit. In the meantime i put it back together and went for a ride, its missing and backfiring still, I set the scan master to VOLTs and low and behold the voltage is freaking out. it actually went to 0.0 then 5.5 on the scan master. I tried to data log but for some reason it did not save the file. now with the voltage drop the fuel pressure never dropped, and i did not notice any dimming of lights in the car. so I have an electrical issue that needs correcting. I will leave the intake alone for now until I get the voltage issue fixed. let me explain, back in oct 2015 the week before cruising the coast the car started to backfire, I notice then that the volts were getting low so once at CTC I got a 200amp alt. from a fellow GN owner and we put it on the car, the volts stayed steady with the change, so I am thinking that was the problem . A week later back at home it backfired on me again, I would get in the car start it and the light near the ECM would blink and the fuel pressure would pulse with the blink, so I had a spare coil pack and put is on and it seemed to solve the problem, one month later it starts the same shit, blinking light and pulsing FP, that is when I decided to get the TR6 setup. Everything seemed fine after the install until the day at the track, once I got back home and fixed the loose rocker, went for a test ride and the backfire is back. i have a gremlin that doesn't show his face all the time, It's driving me crazy.
40
« on: January 22 2016, 01:51:48 PM »
Steve don't say things like that.
41
« on: January 20 2016, 09:26:09 PM »
It seemed like it was coming from the covers and the dip stick tube
42
« on: January 20 2016, 08:15:51 PM »
Used another leak down tester today, for some reason his would not seal tight in the head so there was some leakage at the connection . All 6 cyl were at 20% , so of that 20% some was thru the treads for the spark plugs and the rest was coming thru the valve cover breathers .
forzfed
93 octane, 24psi , 18 degrees top gear timing, with meth
43
« on: January 20 2016, 10:18:44 AM »
Steve the leak tester is a cheap one from harbor freight, to zero it out it only took 10 psi them it was plugged into the cyl, the only place I heard air was at the oil dip stick tube
44
« on: January 19 2016, 09:04:52 PM »
the reason I purchased the TR6 was back in November the car started back firing and it stopped as soon as I the spare coil pack on, It did good for a couple of months them started acting up again so I got the TR6 to utilize the new style coil pack and have the rev limiter for safety. tonight I did a compression test and all cyl where 160-170 psi. after that I did a leak down test and all had 20-25 percent, which is in the green on the tester. I am not sure if that is too much. So now it has me thinking that I have an ignition issue  and I still haven't figured out why I have oil being pushed out the breathers, pcv grommet, bolts for the valve covers, and valve cover gaskets. Maybe its the 20-25 % leaks in the cyl.
45
« on: January 18 2016, 09:08:38 PM »
Went to the track Sunday made one pass and the engine has a knock, Saturday I installed the new TR6 module with new coil pack and put a 66mm turbo on the car and added slicks, The car hooked good and started moving to the wall so I had to pedal, go on it again and it got loose. after looking at the log I pedal 3 times before the 1/8 and never went full throttle after the first pedal.. I guess I got nervous with the slicks making the car wavy. went 11.75 @ 108 not a bad time for pedaling so much and not pushing the pedal to the floor. now on the return road I heard a ticking on the motor and by the time I got back to my truck it was knocking and missing. got back home and pulled the pass side valve cover and the #4 exhaust rocker stud had backed out half way, I inspected the push rod and rocker and they looked good so I bolted it back in and went for a test, it seemed to be fine but once I got into it the car was back firing so I parked it. so I will to compression test and leak down test to check for a bent valve.
Question are 7mm wires big enough for the TR6
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