New 87 GN (Topic merged with "It's On!" post)

[SuperSix]

Got the front suspension done Saturday.. Sans the sway bar. I need to sand/prep/paint it first.

New calipers, lines, pads, etc.. I actually read the instructions, and honestly I never knew you were supposed to crimp/pinch the outboard pads. 
It has to be done with some pressure, I will do so once I get the brake booster and M/C installed. (Next project)

I got the goddamn spring compressor stuck in the spring when I put together the left hand side. I figured this out AFTER I had it all back together, cotter pins and all. So, I figured I needed to relieve some of the spring pressure to get the tool out. (Very nice compressor - tool rental from Autozone http://www.amazon.com/OEM-27035-Coil-Spring-Compressor/dp/B003A18KCQ )
I put the jack under the LCA, and slowly lowered it. It got about 1.2 way down, then, due to the angle of the agm, the jack slid left (facing car) and the arm came all the way down, with the spindle (still loosely bolted to the bottom ball joint) holding it up enough to where the spring didn't pop out.
I gingerly fiddled with , and removed the coil spring tool. Then - The angle of the LCA was too extreme to get a jack under it to jack it back up. I went and got a ratchet strap and used it to lift the LCA enough so I could get a jack underneath it.

Also - putting the spindles back on when there's no engine/trans in is a joy too. There's not enough weight to get the spindle bolts started, and I have new upper poly bump stops which limits the UCA travel too. Again, I rigged a ratchet strap under the LCA to lift it enough so I could get the bolts started on the upper and lower ball joints.

<EddChina>Top tip - Align the cotter pin holes in the ball joints BEFORE assembling. </EddChina> 

Should I wait until i have the motor/trans in, and there's a full load on the front suspension before I tighten the LCA > frame and UCA > shaft bolts?

I noticed that the wheel weight on the inner right-hand wheel was scrubbed off. Turns out these are REAR TTA rims, that explains the spacers and longer wheel studs that are on the car. I would bet the previous owner installed them w/o spacers, and the tie rod end ate up the wheel weight and slightly dicked up the rim. With the spacer and longer wheel studs, I guess these wheels are OK.

And - Pics of course: (Shocking, yes - I didn't buy new rotors)

Completed RH side:




Primed/painted LH Side, ready for the guts:


LH parts waiting to go in:


Dicked-up RH inner rim/wheel weight:


Completed LH side:


Front shot (I was way too tired to worry about cleaning off the grease nipples. :p)


RH inner shot:


LH inner shot:

[Steve Wood]

think I would wait for the weight

sometimes you can avoid the compressor by loosely connecting the outside of the control arm to the ball joint, pop the spring into place and then jack the lower arm up with a floor jack until you are able to insert the bolts thru the ears of the arm.

Only do this with the engine in the car and with a good safety chain thru the spring and control arm so nothing can fly out

[Pyro6]

Looks good Mark!!! When you have the extra energy though, clean the red grease. Like you said, it is on "nipples" which should eliminate the "chore" portion of the task.

[SuperSix]

I will do so lovingly..

[SuperSix]

I think I will wait to do the rear suspension (new springs, shocks, wheel cylinders, shoes, hardware, pinion seal, etc until after I get the damn thing running.

[Pyro6]

If you want to crimp/pinch the outboard pads, pry up on the center of the outboard pad and tap on the tabs until it doesn't rock in the caliper. When I'm doing a brake job with this style of caliper, I crimp the outboard pad tabs in a vice until I have to snap the pad in the caliper with a pliers. I have what I call a water pump pliers and it doesn't have any serrations. If you don't have the pad in tightly, it rattles going over bumps and washboard type roads, isn't really a safety issue. You can tell when this happens by gently applying the brake and the noise usually goes away.

[Steve Wood]

water pump pliers..musta gone to the same school I did

[Top Speed]

Mark, you are doing a great job. 

[SuperSix]

If you want to crimp/pinch the outboard pads, pry up on the center of the outboard pad and tap on the tabs until it doesn't rock in the caliper. When I'm doing a brake job with this style of caliper, I crimp the outboard pad tabs in a vice until I have to snap the pad in the caliper with a pliers. I have what I call a water pump pliers and it doesn't have any serrations. If you don't have the pad in tightly, it rattles going over bumps and washboard type roads, isn't really a safety issue. You can tell when this happens by gently applying the brake and the noise usually goes away.

thanks for the tips.

I have done many a G-body brake job, but never remember the outer pad being so loose. These are premium AC Delco Durastop pads too.

[SuperSix]

UPDATE!
Yes, I am still alive, and still wrenching on the GN.

I decided to get the fuse link relocation done.
I staggered the crimps so that section wouldn't be bulky when covered with loom. I didn't solder the crimped connectors, just a serious crimp, heat shrink, and loom over it. 

Took an old battery cable I had laying around and made it into a positive feed cable for the junction box. A bit overkill, but I had it laying around. I did solder the copper ends on though - using a propane torch. I am very happy with the results.

Here's some pics.










Then I decided to get the master cylinder area prepped for the MC/Booster.
I cut off and terminated the Powermaster wiring, and re-wrapped the harness below the booster.
I decided to run all new gauge/etc wires through the firewall - I can't trust anything with this car, and I have a bunch of wire anyway. Someone had drilled multiple holes just to the left of the cruise control vacuum line grommet. I found it interesting that even though all these holes were drilled - the old gauge wires was still run through the cruise control vacuum line grommet. Duh. Only the boost gauge tube was going through the extremely rough, ghetto holes. I pulled all of the non factory wiring out and will replace with new. The inside wiring for the gauge lights, senders, etc was a joke.
Pic after I took a Dremel and ground down the flash.


I know I should have welded a repair cover plate, but not HAVING a welder poses an issue.  I had some flat aluminum bar stock, fabricated a cover plate and adhered it with a large glob of RTV. I am thinking of drilling it top and bottom and bolting it in, but I think the RTV should be fine.

I drilled out out ONE hole in it, and used a grommet. It has since been painted to match the firewall since these pics, I *should* be able to get 3-4 sender wires and the boost signal tube through there.





I did some other piddling around - found out Amazon sent me the wrong accumulator - they say it's correct, it's not. Factory has the main A/C lines at a 45 degree angle, this unit has them at ~60 degrees. I don't think I can return it, I bought it in September.
Nice - Rock Auto has it listed as compatible too, looks like AC/Delco PN 15-1681 is the correct part number.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog-/raframecatalog.php?tab=search&mfr=ACDELCO&partnum=%2015-1681

[motorhead]

Dude... all that effort and you didn't paint the calipers or rotor hats?

[$1987 GN$]

Dude... all that effort and you didn't paint the calipers or rotor hats?

Seen that coming. 

AJ___

[SuperSix]

Dude... all that effort and you didn't paint the calipers or rotor hats?

I don't plan on keeping the front brakes for too long (or the rims, for that matter) - didn't care to spend the time painting those parts.

[SuperSix]

Worked some more on it yesterday.

I dropped the tank - thankfully, there was VERY little gas in the tank, and no rust. There's some crap in baffle area, but not too bad.

I removed the hokey hot wire that was installed, I will be using a Racetronix hot wire kit.

I rigged up an old pump, and a hose to the fuel feed. then I put a section of hose on the other end of the feed line under the hood - with a hose in a bucket. Then I put ~3 gallons of fresh fuel in the tank, swished it around, and pumped it through the system. I saw a little bit of surface rust in the bucket. I will run a few more gallons through once I get the new pump installed. Afterward, I replaced the fuel filter too. Is there some sort of solvent or something I can flush the system with that's better that straight gasoline?

The fuel strainer I ordered for the used GSS340M I planned to use, it didn't fit of course.   

I tested the fuel level sender, and I didn't like what I saw. (very erratic readings, using both a DVOM and analog meter) The in tank fuel line had been clamped WAY too hard, so i made a trip to NAPA and got the correct, submersible hose.

So.... I needed a "Ramchargers" dual fan harness, so when I ordered that from Racetronix, I went ahead and got a whole new hangar, sending unit and pump kit. It was on sale, and I want to do it once, and do it right.

That should be fine for what I plan to use the car with.

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=FPS-G7W255



Pics of ghetto hot wire setup, and wonderful monkey welding on the exhaust tip. 







Only decent shot of inner tank wall I could get:

[SuperSix]

Sigh.... This car is indeed possessed.

I spent a ton of time cleaning and prepping the gas tank. Wire wheel, Scotchbrite pad, degreased, etc.

I noticed some pitting on the bottom, where the tank had rusted when moisture got in between the rubber tank strap isolator and the tank.

I sprayed it with 2 coats of rusty metal primer, ~2 coats Rustoleum Flat black and installed the new Racetronix hanger, fuel pump and harness.

Pics:
Close up of corrosion damage before primer:


Tank cleaned, and ready for paint:


Primed rust area:


Completed tank:




After installing the new intermediary flexible fuel sections, trying to install the tank, trimming the other replacement fuel lines I noticed the goddamn tank started leaking.

Seems scraping it barely on the concrete under the car broke open a leak in the damaged section. 

I should have posted pics of the pitting and seen if I should have just gotten a new tank.

* SuperSix is a dumbass.

Sooo.. I ordered a new tank today - I should have it Wednesday.

I also found out the dual Intrepid fans that came with the car are defective, only one of the fans works. I will need to replace that too, especially since I already bought the Racetronix dual fan wiring kit.

Not much left to replace!