Procedure of replacing rear end both upper and lower control arms bushings

[gnonyx]

Disconnect the shocks and let the rear end droop more, like close to full extension. Right now it's just up in your way.

Right now I'm doing the driver side and have the lower control arm, and coil spring off. I have the pass, side still connected to prevent the axle from turning.
When you say disconnected the shocks to let the rear end droop, are claiming both shocks or just the side I'm working on?

[xracerx13]

the pics you posted are scary and setup for failure.
follow Steves instructions.
you should not have had to remove anything but one control arm at a time.
the rear twisting is one thing but it can move away from you also if you dont leave 1 arm connected.

*****jack stands go under frame before the rear wheel then you use a floor jack on the side your working on to relieve tension or under the pumpkin. if you dont do this then the body is not supported and the body can ...well you know

[Steve Wood]

ook at the pictures.  see the socket I stuck on the end of the bolt head?

There is nothing obstructing your access.  I find it easier to lay on the floor and remove it because my back starts to ache and my legs go numb when standing very long.  I also find it easier to see the bolt from that position.  Put a breaker bar on the socket if you need more leverage to break it loose.  As the pictures show, you have plenty of clearance to get to it.

The bolt head is not very tall so I would use a six point socket and make sure it is on square in order to not round it off.

the nut on the other end of the bolt is a bit harder to see particularly on the driver's side but a socket will go over it.

Instructions are on page  3D2-2 of the manual.

[gnonyx]

the pics you posted are scary and setup for failure.
follow Steves instructions.
you should not have had to remove anything but one control arm at a time.
the rear twisting is one thing but it can move away from you also if you dont leave 1 arm connected.

*****jack stands go under frame before the rear wheel then you use a floor jack on the side your working on to relieve tension or under the pumpkin. if you don't do this then the body is not supported and the body can ...well you know

The orange floor jack is place before the rear wheels; the other white color floor jack is only supporting the axel, and the red floor jack is placed underneath the center hub axel.
As I mention before I'm only doing one side, driver side.

[gnonyx]

ook at the pictures.  see the socket I stuck on the end of the bolt head?

There is nothing obstructing your access.  I find it easier to lay on the floor and remove it because my back starts to ache and my legs go numb when standing very long.  I also find it easier to see the bolt from that position.  Put a breaker bar on the socket if you need more leverage to break it loose.  As the pictures show, you have plenty of clearance to get to it.

The bolt head is not very tall so I would use a six point socket and make sure it is on square in order to not round it off.

Thanks for the picture Steve, but my problem is not the bolt it's the nut, which is behind the body frame and it feels like the whole bolt is in an angle close to the body itself. Give me a while and I'll try to take another picture in a better angle if I can.
Right now I'm in the process of removing the old lower control arm bushings, and I was thinking once I installed new bushing I was going to place the lower arm back onto the car before removing the uppers. What do you think of this procedure?

[Steve Wood]

Yes, I mentioned the nut when I edited the post.  Look at the passenger side as it is easier to see.  You might spray it with some rust buster or such to clean the dirt off it.

Only do one arm at a time.  As I said, I slide under the car on my back with my head aimed at the front of the car.  I find it much easier to see everything from that angle.

[Steve Wood]

the only real obstruction is the e brake cable and the rubber protector over it.  You can push it up or pull it down, whichever gives you the best view.  On this particular car, the mufflers kinda block a straight view.

I suspect, I blew the dirt off and slipped a box end over the nut and then loosened from the side aimed toward the spring.  Looks like if one is patient, he can slip a socket over it as well.  a 3/8's drive probably gives more room to work on the nut.

[gnonyx]

the only real obstruction is the e brake cable and the rubber protector over it.  You can push it up or pull it down, whichever gives you the best view.  On this particular car, the mufflers kinda block a straight view.

I suspect, I blew the dirt off and slipped a box end over the nut and then loosened from the side aimed toward the spring.  Looks like if one is patient, he can slip a socket over it as well.  a 3/8's drive probably gives more room to work on the nut.

Well Steve, I finally got the upper control arm nut off, and I did by using a Craftsman wrench that is works like a socket, but has an open end. The pictures shows that tool, and trust me that tool has save me a lot of time, and also provided me with more accessible than other socket tools.
Yesterday I soak the lower arm bushing with penetrating fluid, and also place the replacement bushings in the freezer.
Today I used the ball joint tool and the bushing came out without any issue, and installing the new bushing went in like slicing butter.
I already installed the lower control arm back on the car, but didn't tighten them.
I read the PDF file you sent to me, (Thank You) but would the arm installed give me any issue with removing the upper?

[Steve Wood]

No, it only aids in keeping the rear axle from moving around and making it hard to line stuff up.

Be sure the weight of the car is on the tires before tightening the bushings down.

and, yeah, that style socket comes in handy when there is limited room for a deeper socket

[gnonyx]

No, it only aids in keeping the rear axle from moving around and making it hard to line stuff up.

Be sure the weight of the car is on the tires before tightening the bushings down.

and, yeah, that style socket comes in handy when there is limited room for a deeper socket

Tomorrow will be taking the wife to the doctor and it's going rain heavy so I will remove the upper on Thursday. The car is in the garage, but I need to open the garage door in order to raise the rear end up.
Will keep in touch, and Thanks Again

[gnonyx]

So I finally got the driver side upper, lower and new spring installed, but not tighten to torque spec.
Now working on the pass. side close to the garage wall, and it's enough for my 5'11" 250 lb. body to squeeze between the car and wall, and I work on the pass. side before eating.
I had a very hard time trying to remove the lower control arm bolt that is behind the drum brake. It took me about couple of hours just of trying to remove that bolt, and I finally got it out.
What is strange is all upper, and lower bolts were it good condition, except the one that was hard getting out. This bolt looks like it was deformed and not by rust, and the bottom line I need to get a replacement bolt.

[Steve Wood]

I usually was good at squeezing into tight places, but, as I got older, squeezing out of those places got a lot harder LOL

Be sure you get a good quality grade 8 bolt to replace the rusted up one!  Sounds like you are making good progress once you figured out what wrench you needed.  I think that is one of the secrets to being a successful mechanic-knowing what wrench will work.  Snap-On has made a fortune out of coming up with the special wrench you need to do a job.  That double swivel spark plug wrench I bought about 15 years ago replaced the four wrenches I used to change the plugs on regals.  Number 5 is still hard after I installed the Champion valve covers which are taller after I put roller rockers on it when we changed the heads a couple of years ago.

[gnonyx]

I usually was good at squeezing into tight places, but, as I got older, squeezing out of those places got a lot harder LOL

Be sure you get a good quality grade 8 bolt to replace the rusted up one!  Sounds like you are making good progress once you figured out what wrench you needed.  I think that is one of the secrets to being a successful mechanic-knowing what wrench will work.  Snap-On has made a fortune out of coming up with the special wrench you need to do a job.  That double swivel spark plug wrench I bought about 15 years ago replaced the four wrenches I used to change the plugs on regals.  Number 5 is still hard after I installed the Champion valve covers which are taller after I put roller rockers on it when we changed the heads a couple of years ago.

I'm a bit younger than you and squeezing out of those places is already harder to get out but it's easier to slide in.
The pass. side lower control arm bolt was a pain, and I found the only way to remove the bolt was to remove the drum brake adjustment knock out plug and used a flat bar and bang the shit out of it.
I already found a good used bolt with flat washer, just waiting for USPS delivery.

[gnonyx]

Today I received my replacement bolt and I will remove the rear upper control arm; remove, and install new bushings, and new rear springs as well.
The only problem is I read two different torque spec., so which one is correct?

FRONT:

* Front Upper A-arm bolts = 45ft lbs
* Front Lower A-arm bolts = 65ft lbs
* Ball Joint to Spindle = 65ft lbs
* Lower Ball Joint = 90ft lbs
* Sway bar end links = 40ft lbs

REAR:

* Upper & Lower Control arm bolts = 75ft lbs

[gnonyx]

Today I received my replacement bolt and I will remove the rear upper control arm; remove, and install new bushings, and new rear springs as well.
The only problem is I read two different torque spec., so which one is correct?

FRONT:

* Front Upper A-arm bolts = 45ft lbs
* Front Lower A-arm bolts = 65ft lbs
* Ball Joint to Spindle = 65ft lbs
* Lower Ball Joint = 90ft lbs
* Sway bar end links = 40ft lbs

REAR:

* Upper & Lower Control arm bolts = 75ft lbs

Okay ever mind I found it.